We headed out this morning with a pretty big to-do list, but even before we left we were subjected to extraordinary noise – music, explosions, shouting, coming from just beyond the old town walls. When we came to the first gap in the wall we stuck our heads (and the rest of us) through and encountered a seemingly endless column of protest marchers (more like stragglers) displaying their displeasure at recent national laws raising the retirement age from 62 to 64. This was just one of many rolling protests across France; they do not seem to have had much influence on the national governments resolve at this stage. 62 to 64? Needless to say they received little support from us.
We then jumped in one of the little “Baladine”electric
buses (seating only four) passengers, with standing room for just a couple
more) that provide a shuttle service around the old town, i.e. inside the old
town walls. We jumped off just short of
our destination, then sang and danced our way across le pont d’Avignon (or what
remains of it anyway). The original
wooden bridge, of folkloric (and musical) fame, was built in just eight years,
between 1177 and 1185. The background
myth is that in 1177 a young shepherd from the mountains of Ardeche, named Bénézet, was inspired by an angel in a dream to go down to Avignon to build
the bridge. He did so, gaining popular support – and funding - by doing a
couple of impossible things, and the bridge was built, linking Avignon across
the Rhône to Villeneuve lez Avignon. The bridge was damaged by floodwaters many
times over the centuries and rebuilt in stone, however the flood of 1669 tore
half of it away, leaving only four of the original 22 arches. Still, an impressive sight and a great
experience to actually stand on the bridge that has such a link to our
childhood songs and rhymes. (It was a bit of a disappointment to learn that the
song is actually an adaptation of a much slower, monastic chant.)
A
five-minute walk and we were at the Palais des Papes (the Popes’ Palace). The papacy was domiciled in Avignon from 1309
to 1377, due to political instability in Rome. Seven successive popes resided
here. It is an absolutely huge complex! We were each given an iPad that allowed us to
scan a link in each room, learn its history and view a virtual reconstruction
of the room as it would have appeared during the papal occupancy. A wonderful experience! It took us a couple
of hours to make our way through the state rooms, the treasury rooms, personal
quarters, staff quarters. Even though
the popes occupied this palace for a relatively short time they certainly
showed off the power and opulence of the Roman Catholic Church.
After
a late lunch we went next door to the palace, to the Basilica of Notre-Dame-des-Doms,
dating from 1150. Again, huge, ornate,
opulent.
We
then walked to the main square, Place de Horloge, to the ornate clock tower and
the town hall (Hotel de Ville d’Avignon), a recent (1844) addition which ironically
separates the clock tower from the square that bears its name.
Then
to the Basilique Saint-Pierre, a 14th century church with the most
beautiful apse, choir and nave, flanked on both sides by striking private
chapels. The 19th century
carpet from the choir now hangs at the back of the church.
We
went into another church, only to find a funeral in progress. We politely asked the mourners to move aside
while we took our photos, then threw a general message of condolence towards
those we thought would be closest to the deceased (on account of their weeping
and wailing), then left them to get on with it.
Just
kidding. As soon as we walked in and saw
that there was a funeral in progress we beat a hasty but dignified retreat.
A leisurely stroll home, enjoying the winding alleyways and seeing how the people here live. Another satisfying day.
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